Crested Gecko Care Sheet: Scientific Name: Correlophus Cilliatus Habitat: New Caledonia Enclosure specifics: Babies: 8Qrt Bin+ Adults: 18x18x24 minimum (glass/pvc) Screen is not reccomended. -Add plenty of foliage (fake or real plants) to allow them comfort and feel safe. A bare enclosure will keep your gecko stressed. There should be an abundance of both verticle and horizontal opportunities for them to climb and perch. Flukers vines, sticks, and cork bark are a few good options. 2-3 hides should be made available for the gecko to escape. - Crested geckos should not co-habitate for any purpose other than breeding, which generally can be done by only temporarily co-habbing until a successful lock is acheived. F/F, M/F, M/M or otherwise. Diet: -Complete Gecko Diet + 1x weekly insects (crickets, dubias, meal worms) (recommended) Pangea Growth & Breeding mixed with additional Pangea fruit flavors (watermelon, apricot, etc..). Fig and insect pangea tends to be a favorite. -Other CGD options: Repashy, zoo med, arcadia, etc.. -Babies can be fed everyday. Adults should be fed 3-4x per 7 day week. -Variety is important. rotate flavors of CGD and provide a variety of different insects listed above. -Provide gecko with fresh water daily in a shallow water bowl. YES- this is not a debate. Humidity: - Humidity should be spiked to 80%+ and allow a dry out period of down to 40-50% prior to spiking again. This generally requires only 1 misting per night, and dry out during the day. If you live in an arid climate, you may require misting 1x per night and 1x per morning. - Humidity should NEVER consistently be above 60% and NEVER consistently below 50%. Both of which can lead to health issues for your gecko. Heat/Lights: -Heat is not required if room temperature does not drop consistently below 65 degrees F. Likewise, the room temperature should never rise above 82 degrees F. -If your room is consistently below 65F, you should consider a low wattage Ceramic heat emitter with a thermostat regulating temperature to an avg. of 72-75 degrees during the day, and 68-70 degrees at night. -WARNING*** If you use a space heater- this will severely dry out the air and you need track humidity accordingly. -NEVER add a heat source without a thermostat. This is extremely dangerous for your geckos well being. -UVB: recommended (not required) uvb is a T5 arcadia shade dweller 2.4%. Be sure your gecko has plenty of foliage to escape uvb when they want to. Substrate: - Upon recieving a new gecko, I reccomend starting on paper towels. This will provide easy wellness checks to ensure they are both eating and deficating. After confirmation of both the above you can switch to your preferred substrate. While using paper towels, do not saturate them with water while misting. This will make it difficult for your gecko to escape this high humidity and can result in sores. - I reccomend eco earth/spagnum mixed together for both bio/non-bio. Leaf litter and spagnum moss on top to cover the loose dirt. If you decide to go bioactive, you will need to research additional required lighting to keep plants alive. I reccomend you also research safe plants for your gecko prior to inhabiting the enclosure. A bioactive enclosure should be prepared 3 months in advance of placing a habitant for both plant quarentines and circulating CUC (clean up crew). Other Tips: - Humid hides: provide your gecko with a humid hide/lay box for shedding (and egg laying for females). Female crested geckos can lay both fertile and non-fertile eggs WITHOUT the presense of a male. the hide can be a box filled with moist spagnum moss. Box can varie from a recycled take out box, tuppaware, etc.. 2-3" of spagnum moss available.