Prices are from comparing ECS tuning and FCPEuro. I only used parts from an OEM supplier for the Mini Genuine Part (identical to genuine, just without the fancy box) or the least expensive reliable brand. (What I would be satisfied with putting on my car.)
------------------FLUIDS / FILTERS:
--OIL: $45 - Change at least every 5K miles or once a year. Some recommend more often. Many common faults are related to oil change intervals that are too long (timing chain stretch, vac pump oil inlet clog, turbo oil feed line clog.) I recommend Liqui Molly 5w-30. LM also now has a cool new version of their oil that glows under UV light. Purflux is the OEM supplier for filters.
93500-09/02/2020--COOLANT: $25 - Every 2 years. Use OEM BMW or MINI concentrate, not stuff off the shelf.
--BRAKE FLUID: $30 - Every 2 years. I recommend TYP 200. Has a higher boiling point than OEM among other features.
01/06/2019--TRANSMISSION FLUID:$20 - Roughly every 80K miles. It is NOT lifetime like Mini claims. MTL Red Line recommended.
93500-09/15/2020--FUEL FILTER: $45 - Every 80K. (Someone mentioned that Vaco has wrong sized O-rings)
93500-09/15/2020--AIR FILTER: Once a year with the OEM filter.
------------------CONSUMABLE PARTS:
93500-09/15/2020--SPARK PLUGS: $60 - Every 50K, more often with JCW or tunes. NKG is used as OEM so just buy those.
--SERPENTINE BELT: $10 - Every 50K. You could do a longer interval, but it is super cheap and easy to replace. Also check the water pump pulley when you change the belt.
93500-09/15/2020--BRAKES / ROTORS: Measure the brakes and replace them once the material is thinner than the backing pad. Usually the rotors must be replaced every brake change, so measure their thickness as well.
--BRAKE LINES: $110 - Consider stainless steel brake lines. The original rubber ones will stretch over time and become “spongy”. A nice upgrade.
93500-09/15/2020--COILS: $30 X4 - Some say that these will last the lifetime of the car. That may be true, but I would keep one spare in the car in case one fails. Delphi is the OEM supplier.
93500-09/15/2020--Battery: $200 - Change every 4 years to be on the safe side. These cars are very sensitive to voltage problems, so if you start getting random electrical related problems, starting with a new battery isn't a bad idea. A module in the car will need to be told that a new battery has been installed. Otherwise it will charge it at the wrong rate resulting in killing your new battery sooner. You can do this at the dealer, but I would instead just buy the Carly for BMW app and tool and do it yourself. It costs about the same as the programing cost @ dealer, but you get a great tool that does a ton of other things. You will need to do this regardless of if you have an IBS module, despite what many on the internet will tell you.
------------------SERVICE:
--CARBON CLEANING: Every 40K miles. The intake valves get coated in a tar like carbon and eventually choke the engine. Results in all kinds of problems like rough idling, poor performance, and poor MPG. Can even cause the valves to overheat and break. I have a guide I created on how to DIY this. IMO it is the most through guide out there. PM me for info.
------------------COMMON FAILURE POINTS TO LOOK OUT FOR / REPLACE EARLY:
43917-12/20/2013--TIMING CHAIN: $400 - Stretches over time, the guides can break, or the tensioner stops working properly. Results in the “Death rattle” during cold starts and ultimately the timing will jump / break resulting in catastrophic engine failure.
61041-09/30/2016--HPFP (High Pressure Fuel Pump): $800 (Now around $275! (Anddd it's back up :( )) - Seals inside go bad over time and can result in difficulty starting and random loss of power while driving. Can cause a variety of codes or none at all. May be covered under 120K mile or 10 year extended warranty. There are suspiciously cheap pumps on ebay for around $200, but people have had mixed luck with them.
93456-09/05/2020--VACUUM PUMP: $120 - Oil inlet clogs and lets the pump run dry. When this happens, it overheats and breaks in such a way that it seizes in place. Sheers the exhaust camshaft bolt resulting in catastrophic engine failure with no warning. Pierburg is the OEM supplier.
11/14/2018--THERMOSTAT HOUSING: $80 - Leaks or has electrical issues resulting in CEL. Bremmen parts is the current OEM supplier. Replace the plastic water pipe whenever you change the thermostat. I cannot stress that enough. If you disturb the T-stat housing at all (unbolt it) you MUST replace the plastic water pipe at the same time if it is high mileage.
--PLASTIC WATER PIPE: $85 - Runs behind engine, under intake manifold. Connects water pump to thermostat. Becomes brittle over time and shatters at water pump connection point causing total coolant loss in minutes and engine overheating. The plastic bits can also get into the coolant system causing clogs inside the engine. I would change it every 80K at least or whenever the thermostat is changed. If you are replacing one (thermostat or water pipe), replace both while you are in there. Make sure that the source of the leak is not the water pump. DO NOT try to be cheap and skip replacing the thermostat if replacing the pipe or vice versa. I paid the price as well as many other have when doing this.
-0000 (Looks new 2020)-WATER PUMP: $55 (for upgraded metal impeller version) - Another common leakage point. The design has changed from a plastic housing to a cast aluminium one to prevent this. Make sure that the source of the leaks is not the plastic water pipe. There are aftermarket options with a metal impeller instead of plastic like the OEM.
--TURBO DIVERTER VALVE: $55 - Fails resulting in unexpected (low) boost pressure. A common source of a yellow engine warning light and limp mode. Pierburg is the current OEM supplier.
--INTAKE BOOT: $110 - Connects filter box to turbo intake. Heat rot will break down the rubber at the turbo connection. Check it and replace once it starts to break down. You can also wrap it in a product called fiber fix ($10) to fix it or strengthen it significantly and make it last indefinitely. IMO the fiberfix is a better solution than buying a new pipe, regardless of the cost. PM me for a photo of an example.
--VALVE COVER / PCV SYSTEM: $330 - The Positive Crankcase Ventilation system is built into the valve cover. It can get clogged resulting in various problems like rough idle, CEL, etc. Also, a common source of oil leaks. You may be able to replace just the gasket for oil leaks. Make sure you get some ultra black RTV when you get the gasket.
--EVAP PURGE VALVE: $100 - Not sure how wide spread of a problem this is, but I've had it and have read of others having it recently. Gets stuck open or partially open causing CEL for evap leak, close gas cap warning, difficulty starting after fueling up, and even limp mode due to boost pressure leak.
--PCV HOSE: $40 - Runs from rear passenger side of the valve cover to the intake manifold. Thin plastic that breaks over time resulting in large vacuum/boost leak / unmetered air. Search for "MINI Cooper S PCV Hose Fix" on youtube for a more durable DIY alternative.
--CRANKSHAFT SEAL: $10 - Another common source of oil leaks. Fel-Pro has good community feedback and comes with a handy plastic guide to help line up the seal. Use a 2" PVC pipe coupling to help tap in the new seal without the need of a special tool.
--OIL FILTER HOUSING GASKET: $30 - Yet another common source of oil leaks.
--VANOS SOLENOID: $45 - Can get clogged or fail over time resulting in rough idling or timing over/under retarded codes. You can get one that works fine for cheap on amazon.
--LOWER ENGINE MOUNT: $30 - Breaks down over time and causes the engine to be loose in relation to everything else. You can fill it with 3M window weld (urethane) to make it more rigid. I would do the urethane mod even with a brand new one, gives a less "lurchy" ride without being too stiff like some expensive aftermarket inserts.
------------------MY OTHER GUIDES:
CARBON CLEANING: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2627846
HEADLIGHT JOEY MOD: https://imgur.com/a/zz9fM
HEADLIGHT RESTORATION: https://imgur.com/a/ZiGse
CATCH CANS: https://imgur.com/a/WFLyq
PSA ON DEATH RATTLE: https://www.facebook.com/groups/713376242178096/permalink/962216800627371/
------------------HELPFUL WEBSITES:
--RealOEM.com – Has current part numbers and diagrams showing all of the parts. Super helpful.
--ECSTuning.com – One of the best places to buy parts. Has a vast selection and some of the best prices.
--FCPEuro.com – A newer parts source. Has a lifetime warranty on all parts (even consumables like brake pads) they sell and often cheaper prices than ECS. Also great customer service. Not as large of a selection as ECS. If the price is the same I choose FCP. Update: I now buy 90% of my parts through them.
--NewTIS.info – Repair manuals, wiring diagrams, and other great info.
-- A great info video: https://www.youtube.com/watch…